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Greece BeachesThe fantastic beaches of Eleftheres, Kavala - make your pick!
I’m writing this a Sunday night in January. Earlier today I took a walk on one the most popular beaches here, Ammolofoi, with my son and his friend. It was such a warm, bright sunny day and was reminded of how incredibly privileged we are having this resource so close to home.
Ammolofoi, meaning sand dunes or sand hills, are actually the name of several beaches, starting from the ruins of the Byzantine castle in Nea Peramos – its one, several kilometers long stretch, the different bays are broken up by parts of rocks. If you don't have a car you'll go by bus to Peramos and then walk along the sea - it's a beautiful stroll that will take about 40 minutes - or arrange with me to take you there by car. In the high season (July and August) there is a bus from Kavala and Peramos to Ammolofoi. The waters are shallow for a very long bit before it becomes deep, making it a great place to for kids and also grown ups who want to play in the water. There are fishes here and it can be fun to snorkel, or even to go fishing from the rocks. The sand is very fine.
One of the main attractions, to me at least, is that all the land along the beaches is considered archaeological area (an ancient town called Oesyme, with quite some significance, was once situated here) and there’s no building or digging here until the archaeologist have excavated the area. They haven’t even started yet, so it’s unlikely I’ll see any huge hotel complexes along Ammolofoi, as along most Greek beaches, before I die.There are an occasional fat villa – built by someone with right connection, or who fucked or got fucked by the right person. A reminder that though democracy was invented in Greece this is a country where no man are equal. Other people, those without the right connections, have put up their campers in their fields close to the beach. As long as the house or cabin is on wheel, and therefore can be moved, you can legally get both electricity and water. So caravans are used as summer houses. To make them more cool and sometimes also more pretty the owners build roofs for shades, cover the front with bamboo walls or climbing plants and generally make them look more like a stationary summer home than caravans. Old train wagons has for the same reason become popular in Greece – done up, with windows and bathroom, they actually become really chic summer homes, put up close to Greek beaches or other places, on the plots where you’re not allowed to build anything.
For archaeological reasons as well there has been restrictions to putting out sun chairs and have summer bars on the beaches, though there has been different practices on this from year to year. Normally, the first beach at Ammolofoi is clean, with no sun chairs and no bar playing loud music. This part is more for families, bringing their towels and their own umbrellas, while the Ammolofoi beaches further south have popular beach bars which are absolutely packed with young people all summer. I can’t write much about them, because I’ve only been to one, Peponi, once, and I hated it. Actually, we went for drinks in the afternoon, but when you can’t talk because the music is too loud and have to fight through masses of almost nude kids to get into the water I can’t see the point. I probably did when I was 20, but now I’m a grumpy old bitch who wants silence and space.
Other popular beaches in this area are the main village beach of Iraklitsa and Peramos. All the beach along the bay of Iraklitsa has sun chairs and there are several beach bars. Here you can also rent windsurfing boards or a boat for the day. There’s a huge parking, where you’ll always find space to park and which makes access to the beach really easy. Parking last summer was one euro. Having said that, the bus stop is practically on the beach, so it's very easy accessible. We like to pop down here for a coffee and a swim in the afternoon. I especially appreciate to sit on a normal chair (not sun chair) with my book and a coffee in the shadow, watching the kids play in the shallow waters. The only problem in Iraklitsa beach is that from time to time here are jellyfishes. They are blue and almost impossible to see in the water. And yes, they do sting, but not seriously – enough to make you feel uncomfortable, though.Like on all the Greek beaches certain wind directions might fill the waters with garbage. Sometimes, especially in August, with wind from east the beach in Iraklitsa tend to fill up with dirt. The only sensible thing to do is to go to another beach – usually Remvi, on the other side of the village will be fine. Remvi is a small, very pretty bay. If you come by bus you get off at the village square in Iraklitsa, then walk down to the sea and turn right. Pass the small harbour and the peninsula with the tiny church and there you are. The taverna here has good food at very reasonable prices.
Finally, a thing about enjoying the Greek beaches without hurting yourself: Avoid the beach when it's too hot. Normally, on a warm day in July or August, you should avoid the beach between 12 and 16. When in Greece do as the Greeks: Get up early in the morning, hit the coffee shop and tavernas at 12, the follow with a siesta before going back to the beach. Remember, it's not only about getting sun burned: Watch out for the danger of getting a sun stroke or just headaches, and remember to drink plenty of water to prevent dehydration.
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Fed up of the beach? Check the mountains of Greece!
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